Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Why everyone wants THIS watch

We have all seen this watch thousands of times and maybe even had it on our wrist. It feels like everyone wants it - and no one can get it: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut. That's why today I'm giving you a first-hand review. The Aquanaut has been part of my collection for a few weeks.

Aquanaut: The sports watch for beginners from the 90s

In my opinion, the Aquanaut falls into the category of aquatic watches. These are not classic diving watches, but sporty watches for everyday use that you can also wear in the water. The NOMOS Ahoi, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex GMT-Master and Yacht-Master also belong in this category for me.

Patek Philippe launched the first Aquanaut in the 1990s to appeal to a younger generation of buyers. This watch follows the Patek Philippe Nautilus from the 1970s. The goal was to create a modern, new sports watch. The Aquanaut succeeds in achieving an aquatic, sporty look, while bringing individual design elements of the Nautilus into a modern form. The bezel, for example, is reminiscent of the Nautilus.

Today, there is a real hype surrounding the former sports watch for beginners. We are going to get to the bottom of this hype. Starting with a neutral review of a current generation Patek Philippe Aquanaut. Followed by my personal impression of the Aquanaut.

The first Patek Philippe with a rubber strap

The Aquanaut was the first Patek Philippe with a rubber strap. That was still relatively new in the 1990s - and therefore innovative. The rubber strap on the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is now completely integrated into the case. That was not the case with the first generation. Today, the integrated rubber strap is an essential part of the Aquanaut's look for me.

The rubber strap on my Patek Philippe Aquanaut is black. But there are also other colors, such as midnight blue, dark brown, khaki green or white. The Aquanaut is also available on a steel bracelet.

The strap is well made - but it gets cut. This means that if too much is cut, you have to buy a new strap. The rubber strap is also simply attached with a groove and a spring bar. Unfortunately, this doesn't make the Aquanaut strap seem particularly robust.

The clasp: In two versions

There are two versions of the Aquanaut clasp, one of which I find much more practical. One version has a kind of spring inside that opens the entire clasp. There are no buttons on this version. This clasp doesn't seem particularly robust to me. It is also the cheaper version at €1,300. The second version of the clasp has a button mechanism and is therefore more modern and secure. It is also a little more valuable, but also costs more at €2,000.

The sporty dial of the Patek Phillippe Aquanaut

The dial is one of the features that makes the Patek Philippe Aquanaut special. This is mainly due to the special pattern, which some interpret as a grenade pattern and others as a globe. For me, the pattern is more reminiscent of a globe. In terms of color, I would describe the dial as slightly smoky - not gray and not brown, but something in between. At the same time, the dial has a sunburst finish, from the inside to the outside. This also shows the elegance and craftsmanship behind Patek Philippe watches in the Aquanaut.

It is also interesting that the Aquanaut's dial has Arabic numerals, which are normally only found on pilot's watches and field watches. Apart from that, the dial is also very minimalist: there is a date display at 3 o'clock and the words "Patek Philippe" and "Geneve". There are also relatively thick hands with a lot of luminous material. All of this shows that the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is intended as an everyday watch that you should really wear.

The reduced stainless steel case

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut comes with a reduced case: it is not elaborately made, but the workmanship is just as top notch as you would expect from Patek Philippe. This is also because a lot of the work is still done by hand - which makes the watch more high-quality and exclusive.

The stainless steel case is completely brushed on the sides. In contrast, both the upper edges and the crown protectors on the side are polished. The bezel is reminiscent of the Nautilus - it has the rounded octagon of its predecessor, but is slightly rounder on the Aquanaut.

The Aquanaut movement – ​​with Patek Philippe seal

The movement of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is a classic 324. Patek Philippe watches are not chronometer certified - the brand has its own Patek Philippe seal. This seal applies to the workmanship of the case, the movement, the accuracy and more. Patek Philippe controls the movement and the accuracy particularly strictly on six layers, one more than with the classic COSC certification.

You notice this when you wear the Aquanaut: it really is accurate to the second. This quality is also noticeable in the thinness of the movement. The Aquanaut is even thinner than the classic 5711 Nautilus - making it unique in this category.

Facts & figures about the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Before we get to my personal review of the Aquanaut, let's take a quick look at the numbers, data and facts:

• Reference number: 5167A
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 8.3mm
• Lug to lug: 46.7mm
• Water resistance: 120m
• Movement: Patek Philippe manufacture movement 324SC
• Power reserve: approx. 45h

And what does the Patek Philippe Aquanaut price list look like?

List price: 25,000€
Market price: 40,000-50,000€

You can also buy the Patek Philippe Aquanaut at Chronext – with my code “THEWRISTGUY” you get discounts on all orders.

My review: How good is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut really?

Following the neutral review of the Aquanaut, we now come to my personal opinion on the aquatic sports watch. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A has been part of my collection for a few weeks now and I have already tested it extensively - including on a trip to Turkey.

The watch: The Aquanaut as an everyday watch

For me, the Aquanaut is an everyday watch that you should actually wear. This watch is not made to lie in a zip case in your safe all day. In fact, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was intended as an entry-level watch - and not as a safe watch. That's exactly why I wear this sports watch in everyday life.

For example, I took the watch with me to Turkey and wore it every day, whether driving or swimming. I set the Aquanaut to the second and it was still running accurately even after a week. Thanks to the large amount of luminous material and the reduced dial, the watch is really suitable for everyday use. For traveling, I can also recommend our new 1-series Zip Case, which you can use to transport your watch safely and carefully and take it with you on your travels.

The price: What the Aquanaut is worth (to me)

I got my Patek Philippe Aquanaut for the list price, but I had to buy it with a steel bracelet. The Aquanaut actually has a list price of €25,000. The stainless steel version is a bit more expensive. I also bought the rubber strap and the clasp. So I paid a total of €30,000 for my Aquanaut. I don't plan on selling it again, but actually wearing it for the rest of my life.

In terms of price, I would actually put the value of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut at around €20,000 - i.e. below the actual list price. I don't think market prices between €40,000 and €50,000 are justified. After all, the prices for the Aquanaut have already fallen.

Conclusion: Would I recommend the Patek Philippe Aquanaut?

With the Patek Philippe Aquanaut you get the perfect everyday watch that is super precise and pleasing, yet simple and high-quality and particularly flat. For me, the Aquanaut is the best of the aquatic sports watches that should be worn every day. From the thin movement to the modern rubber strap to the special yet easy-to-read dial, the Aquanaut is really ideal for everyday use.

If you're looking for an everyday watch, I would recommend the Aquanaut. Ultimately, Patek Philippe offers a perfect watch that you can appreciate as a watch connoisseur or a beginner. The brand ensures this with its high quality standards and its own Patek Philippe seal. As an entry-level watch, the Aquanaut isn't the best of the best - but it is perfection and truly suitable for everyday use.

Is the Aquanaut worth the hype and the market price?

Even though I really like wearing the Aquanaut, the sports watch is definitely overhyped. For example, I have often seen it on my brother, who had it before me. But the desire to have the Aquanaut is stronger than the feeling of actually owning it. After all, you have seen it so often - even on Instagram - that the watch can hardly keep up with the hype in the end.

I would therefore only recommend the Aquanaut at the list price: in my opinion, the watch is not worth a market price of between €40,000 and €50,000. I also cannot recommend the Patek Philippe Aquanaut as a safe watch or for flipping. It should really be worn and not viewed as a pure investment.

You can also find my personal review of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut on YouTube . Here you can see even more of the aquatic sports watch.